Three cheers for the latest wine bar-resto on the scene – Au Passage – where the laid back décor, focused natural wine list, small plates menu and easy on the wallet prices take the focus off of ordering and puts the emphasis where it should be… on you and your dining companions. The formula works too as Le Fooding just awarded it one of their favorite tables in Paris.
In the spirit of wine bars such as L’Avant Comptoir, Le Verre Vole, Le Chapeau Melon, Frenchie’s wine bar and Chateaubriand, Au Passage didn’t take any time to become a local favorite. The advantage here is that the former worker’s bistro on a quiet passageway in the 11th has elbow and breathing room that the others don’t.
The décor is nothing to write home about, original zinc bar and tiles aside, but when you’re gathered around the table nibbling on lots of delicious seasonal plates and uncorking juicy wine at fair prices, who cares?
It is what it is; a relaxed friendly place filled with locals. Each of the occasions I was there several other restaurateurs and wine shop owners streamed in shaking hands and we all ended up sharing bottles from table to table trying what each had ordered. The natural wine list is brief and focused, about five bottles per region, available by the glass, bottle and to our delight, magnums.
Heirloom Tomatoes and Goat Cheese
Who’s in charge of the food? I didn’t realize when booking the first time that it was a delightful young man from Australia named James Henry who was at Spring for quite some time. We were thrilled when he came out to pull up a chair mid service to catch up and share some wine, before he said hello to other tables. That’s my kind of place.
He’s whipping up the likes of creamy Burrata and coriander flowers, house made rillettes, Chinchard fish tartare, seared hangar steak with a horseradish celery root purée (so darned good we ordered a second serving) and heirloom tomatoes with tangy fresh goat cheese and first pressed olive oil, sauteed mushrooms topped with sunny side up eggs, lamb shoulder and white tuna with zucchini.
Easy to order, easy to share, easy to like.
Burrata and Coriander Flowers
Au Passage is the perfect place to sit back with friends for a fun evening out where both the customers and friendly staff are happy to be there.
SIDENOTE: There is another Au Passage in Paris in the 10th, when making your plans to go, make sure you’ve got the correct address below.
Au Passage
What to Expect: Informal, thoughtful cooking, value, natural wine, local off-the-radar location.
What Not to Expect: Central location, pretension, haute cuisine.
Address and Nearest Metro: 1 bis passage Saint Sébastien, 11th, M° Sébastien-Froissart
Telephone: 01 43 55 07 52
Hours and Prices: Mon-Sat for lunch by the dish (1 for 9.50€, 2 for 13€, 3 for 16.50€) and small plates dinner (average 9€)
Christmas and New Year Hours: Closed Dec. 24 & 25, 31 & Jan. 1.
View Hot Tables in a larger map
Love this place but I really, really wish they would turn down the lights! It’s blindly bright. The ambiance would be 100% improved if they’d just invest in a dimmer switch.
I agree with every word of this review … the food is terrific. But the harsh, unflattering lighting drove our group out without dessert or coffee.
Joan, I agree about the lighting! Did you mention your observation to them?
Hi Wendy. I did mention it to them, but my suggestion seemed to go nowhere. To be honest, I’ve gotten over it. The food is just too good and I’ve had several wonderful evenings there since – including dessert and coffee. I still wish it were a little more ambient, but dishes are so delicious, for a couple of hours I can live with it.
I made mistake of going for lunch…will try for dinner!