Located in the 10th arrondissement just off of the Canal St-Martin, Philou has only been open one year and calls itself a “restaurant” – but it is already included in the top list of great value “bistros” in Paris.
Chef-owner Philippe Damas’ formula exudes “bistro” with its cheerful casual atmosphere, warm welcome, gorgeous modern décor, affordable seasonal food and of course, the fantastic natural wine list one has come to expect in Paris – yet the food is prepared and served with restaurant finesse.
Philippe used to have the Square Trousseau bistro in my neighborhood, but his restaurant concept here is popular in the area for its bistro ambiance; by 1:30 pm the outdoor terrace, main dining room and eight person table just off of the kitchen were filled with happy well-heeled locals enjoying each other’s company.
While waiting for my friend Gilles who left his own restaurant to join me (“Lunch at Philou? Mais bien sur, I will be there!”) Philippe and I chatted over a glass of white Bandol by the window in one of the red leather baquettes.
Looking at the pretty space he told me that it was designed by his father, a renowned “bistro” architect in France who has created “too many restaurants to name” and who sourced the German Ingo Maurer chandelier which anchors the room.
When Philippe walked me through the daily-changing chalkboard prix fixe menu, he rattled off the producers and where the products were coming from with pride.
I told him there were so many great choices it was hard to choose: hearty corn soup with foie gras and figs, whole scallops cooked ceviche-style in lemon butter served in their shells topped with aged parmesan shavings and Thierry Breton (Chez Michel) bread crumbs, crispy free-range roasted chicken with chanterelle mushrooms, entrecote steak with grenailles potatoes and roasted pheasant with caramelized endives.
Gilles arrived kissing everyone in the place before sitting down. After one quick look at the menu and wine list he made the decision easy telling Philippe, “A bottle of Lapierre Morgon, two of the scallops and two entrecotes, bleu!” raising his index finger for emphasis on the bleu.
Not only were the plump scallops firm and delicious, the tangy lemon butter sauce begged for additional Breton bread to soak up every ounce. And that entrecote? It was the juiciest most perfectly cooked piece of this kind of steak that I’ve had in quite some time. The grenailles potatoes noted for their small size and skin only benefited from the richness of the steak jus – just fantastic.
The desserts also looked terrific, but I just didn’t have room, however Gilles couldn’t be stopped. He ordered both the lemon mousse with fig compote in white wine and a poached pear in salted butter caramel. Any why not? With both lunch and dinner prices fixed at 2 plates for 25 euros and 3 for 30 euros, your wallet (if not your waistline) can afford it.
Recently I was sitting next to some nice folks at another restaurant who asked me about this place because they were holding a New York Times article written by Mark Bittman including it in his piece “Four Paris Restaurants Worth a Metro Ride.” I told them that I agreed and that I’ve written several times about other restaurants in my site that fall under the category of “wish it were in my neighborhood so I could eat there more often” and Philou is definitely one of them.
Philippe’s father may have designed a pretty interior, but he has created a truly delightful place to gather around generous portions of modern comfort classics with a bit of soul, washed down with affordable natural wines.
Philou
What to Expect: Informal, thoughtful seasonal cooking, value, natural wine, local off-the-radar location, Chef-owner always on premise.
What Not to Expect: Central location, pretension, haute cuisine.
Address and Nearest Metro: 12 avenue Richerand, 10th, Metros Goncourt (Line 11) or Jacques Bonsergent (Line 5).
Telephone :01 42 38 00 13
Hours and Prices: Open daily for lunch and dinner Tuesday – Friday. 2 plates 25 euros, 3 plates 30 euros.
View Hot Tables in a larger map
Good blog!