When 2-Michelin star Chef Jean-Francois Piege (aka JFP) decided to leave the stoves of Les Ambassadeurs Restaurant

to cross the river into the arms of classic brasserie Thoumieux - with Thierry Costes - the food press couldn’t make reservations or write fast enough. Phone lines, tweets and pens were smoking.

We arrived on a Wednesday night greeted by the usual pretty Costes front of the house staff – which took our coats and, perhaps, went over the top using the name we reserved in a bit too much. Just part of the Costes “machine.”

The key words are “over the top.” When we were led into the bar area at the foot of the room, our group let out an audible gasp and sat speechless on the banquette looking into the newly renovated space.

No longer a tired version of itself, it is completely glammed up. The long narrow space is lined with red plush banquettes and diners are illuminated by a mix of both feminine crystal candelabra and masculine 50's sconces inset in wall to wall mirrors.



Of course we ordered the much-hyped pizza souffle to start - but any idea of this dish working went up in a puff of air as soon as Alec's fork pierced the dough. Beanbag-esque, it "fell" flat into a casserole of tasteless roquette, tuna, burrata and dough. Next.



My steamed shrimp with white wine was soggy - at least not overcooked as it the norm - and unappetizingly wedged between green scallions and sad green romaine on a green plate. It just seemed lost and uninspired. White plates anyone?



Not all hope was lost though...If we were giving Academy Awards for "Best Performance, Direction, Casting and Design", it went to the wild calamari squid, nested in a rich egg yolk sauce with grilled bits of pancetta and Parmesan topped with diced parsley.



My pork sat on a perfect bed of lentils...but was a poor cut of meat, overcooked and pulled apart as effortlessly as a rubber band. Sending it back only produced the same dish.



The second audible gasp of the night was our version of Richard Blackwell's black list of worst-dressed celeb. Lievre Royale - a historic French recipe of "ripe" hare cooked in its blood - walked the red carpet with a gold leaf covering its midsection.  When I shared this with a noted chef the following evening, he said, "Hmmmm, you only put gold on a dish when it is really good, or... when it is really bad." I agree, this hearty and earthy dish didn't need it - the gold leaf was just silly and unnecessary.



A shared dessert of churros, the Spanish version of beignets, was only pretty to look at...my thoughts on the evening.



Will I be back soon? Only if they turned it into an all night Champagne oyster bar. I'd gladly sign up for the membership card and invite my same dinner companions, F. Scott Fitzgerald and Rhett Butler. You know who you are.

Why go?

It is open daily for lunch and dinner. So if you happen to find yourself jetlag tired and hungry on a weekend - you won't mind the cost and will be grateful for the sustenance and great lighting.

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